Journal

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A day in Rabat, twenty minutes away

The capital is the quietest of Morocco's imperial cities. Here is how we send guests there for a day and get them back for dinner.

The kasbah above the beach

Leave after breakfast, while the medina is still waking up. Our driver drops you at Bab el Had and collects you wherever your feet give out.

Morning: the Oudayas

Walk up through the blue-and-white lanes of the Kasbah des Oudayas to the terrace over the river mouth, then down to the Andalusian garden for mint tea at the Café Maure.

Afternoon: Chellah

Roman streets and Merinid tombs inside a walled garden, storks on every ruin. Go late, when the light is long and the crowds have left.

Back for dusk

Be on the rampart at Al Kasbah by seven for the sunset. It is a short drive, and worth timing your day around.